Repossi’s accolade to Robert Mapplethorpe

a couple of decade ago, Gaia Repossi, the inventive administrator of her family unit’s namesake comely rings label, bought a Robert Mapplethorpe image of a approach timberline swaying in the wind, its aciculate atramentous fronds bent against a blank sky. She acquainted the cool, elegant photo shared the equal heavenly along with her personal minimalist-leaning work, and located herself turning to Mapplethorpe’s photos — especially to his self-pictures and his architectural nonetheless lifes of plant life — further and further. “It’s now not cute. It’s actual sharp, very severe,” the designer, 33, says of the artisan’s body of work. then, in 2016, came the opportunity to coact along with his property. The effect — a 24-piece tribute collection absolute necklaces, pendants, bracelets and rings — will inaugurate later this yr, three decades after the columnist’s demise in 1989.

The architecture method begun when the Paris-based mostly Repossi delved into Mapplethorpe’s athenaeum at both the in los angeles and the Robert Mapplethorpe basis in long island and baldheaded a side of the artisan she hadn’t previously widespread. In his aboriginal 20s, while dwelling within the Chelsea lodge, Mapplethorpe supported himself by promoting talismanic jewelry he made from scavenged ephemera — cube, nails, accoutrement, cash, abandoned backtalk claws swiped from restaurants. enchanted, Repossi, who holds a grasp’s diploma in archaeology, sifted in the course of the copious debris of his jewelry around 25 items, together with a whole lot of additional bits, stay, in addition to Polaroids of a younger Mapplethorpe and his pals modeling his wares, authoritative sketches as she went.

some of Mapplethorpe’s creations, like a sequence made from ambit nails, accumbent with Repossi’s affection for summary, habitual shapes. To recreate it, she forged nails in white and dark grey gold, looping them into stacked, radiant rings, some with pavé diamonds. a sequence-link and rope necklace threaded with pink and atramentous award, meanwhile, turned into rendered as a multilayered choker that includes darkish crimson gold as well as metal, a new fabric for the manufacturer. different finds — namely necklaces strung with backtalk claws, shells, animal figurines and skulls — were a acceptable challenge. Repossi concluded up allotment a maître d’paintings to carve molds of some of these allegorical points in wax, which have been again solid into steel pendants and, in some situations, covered in shimmering colours like magenta and canteen eco-friendly.

Like Mapplethorpe, Repossi is desirous to upend convention — for one allotment, she raided the rings residence’s assortment of vintage chaplet, bought in outdated a long time by means of her ancestor, and coupled them with chaplet of black gold, quartz and metal — and she or he isn’t shy about enlisting pals. To shoot the agenda and neighbourly media crusade for the assortment, she hired Juergen Teller to retract 1970s-vogue Polaroids of Mapplethorpe’s amphitheater Cindy Sherman, the mannequin and artist David Croland and fanatics Virgil Abloh, the curator Flavin Judd donning pieces from the collection, which, moreover an ongoing exhibition on the Guggenheim in big apple and a contemporary biopic via Ondi Timoner, is the newest evidence of a Mapplethorpe renaissance.